{"id":344,"date":"2015-08-03T15:55:00","date_gmt":"2015-08-03T15:55:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jessicaeblack.wordpress.com\/?p=344"},"modified":"2019-08-29T21:09:48","modified_gmt":"2019-08-29T21:09:48","slug":"madrid-miscellanea","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/","title":{"rendered":"Madrid, miscellanea"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_373\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-373\" style=\"width: 283px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jessicaeblack.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/07\/moncloa.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"  wp-image-373\" src=\"https:\/\/jessicaeblack.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/07\/moncloa.jpg?w=300&#038;resize=283%2C280\" alt=\"Moncloa\" width=\"283\" height=\"280\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/moncloa.jpg?w=662&amp;ssl=1 662w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/moncloa.jpg?resize=300%2C297&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 283px) 100vw, 283px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-373\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Arco de la Victoria stands where the A6, the freeway connecting the northwest provinces to Madrid, enters the city.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I fell in love with Madrid the first year I spent in Spain. \u00a0I was living in Palencia, a small city in Castilla-Leon whose residents take pride in their pure\u00a0<em>castellano<\/em> (Castilian Spanish), the early <a href=\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Catedral_de_San_Antol%C3%ADn_de_Palencia\">Gothic Cathedral<\/a>\u00a0known as\u00a0<em>la bella desconocida<\/em>, and the province&#8217;s many examples of <em>arquitectura rom\u00e1nica\u00a0<\/em>(<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Romanesque_architecture_in_Spain\">Romanesque<\/a>, I believe, in English&#8230; I studied History of Art in Spanish and never bothered to learn the terminology in English).<br \/>\nI loved living in Palencia, and had a wonderful year as an exchange student, but I was always eager to visit Madrid. \u00a0I loved the broad avenue known as\u00a0<em>La Castellana,<\/em> I loved the museums and nightlife, and I loved visiting my Spanish host brother and his friends at their student housing.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_368\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-368\" style=\"width: 660px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jessicaeblack.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/07\/ejercito-del-aire.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-368\" src=\"https:\/\/jessicaeblack.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/07\/ejercito-del-aire.jpg?w=660&#038;resize=660%2C312\" alt=\"The Ejercito del Aire building makes an impressive backdrop to the metro and bus station at Moncloa.  When I first lived in Madrid, all the buses were above ground, and Moncloa was a mess.  The bus routes from the northwest suburbs end at Moncloa, including the many that shuttle students out to the Somosaguas campus, where I \" width=\"660\" height=\"312\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/ejercito-del-aire.jpg?w=1221&amp;ssl=1 1221w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/ejercito-del-aire.jpg?resize=300%2C142&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/ejercito-del-aire.jpg?resize=768%2C363&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/ejercito-del-aire.jpg?resize=1024%2C484&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-368\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Ejercito del Aire building makes an impressive backdrop to the metro and bus station at Moncloa. When I first lived in Madrid, all the buses were above ground, and Moncloa was a mess. The bus routes from the northwest suburbs end at Moncloa, including the many that shuttle students out to the Somosaguas campus, where I &#8220;studied&#8221; during my junior year abroad.<br \/>Now, the bus terminal is underground, and it is much nicer, though still chaotic during rush hour.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I went to Madrid several times during the year I lived in Palencia.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_396\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-396\" style=\"width: 220px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jessicaeblack.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/07\/vodafone-sol-7-21-2015-6-47-05-pm1.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-396 \" src=\"https:\/\/jessicaeblack.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/07\/vodafone-sol-7-21-2015-6-47-05-pm1.jpg?w=195&#038;resize=220%2C339\" alt=\"vodafone sol 7-21-2015 6-47-05 PM\" width=\"220\" height=\"339\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/vodafone-sol-7-21-2015-6-47-05-pm1.jpg?w=602&amp;ssl=1 602w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/vodafone-sol-7-21-2015-6-47-05-pm1.jpg?resize=195%2C300&amp;ssl=1 195w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 220px) 100vw, 220px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-396\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">I hope Vodafone (a Spanish mobile phone\/internet provider) has paid a fortune for advertising, because i find it extremely irritating to see &#8220;vodafone&#8221; before every stop on the red metro line in Madrid. \u00a0(The tio Pepe sign used to be on top of that white building)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I went with my class (I completed COU&#8211;&#8220;Curso de Orientaci\u00f3n Universitaria&#8221;, or the last year before college during which students prepared for their college entrance exams, now known as the second bachillerato year&#8211;in Palencia) to see an exhibit at<br \/>\nthe <a href=\"http:\/\/www.museoreinasofia.es\/en\">Reina Sofia<\/a> museum and the musical <em>Carmen Carmen!\u00a0<\/em>(Antonio Gala) at the teatro Calder\u00f3n<em>. \u00a0<\/em>I met my host brother and friends at the Reina Sofia, and we left (with permission) for dinner; they promised to deliver me to the theatre before the show started, but we got stuck in a broken metro train, so I was late&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>I went with my host family. \u00a0These visits usually included a long visit to\u00a0<em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.elcorteingles.es\/\">El Corte Ingl\u00e9s<\/a>, <\/em>a brief visit at my host brother&#8217;s dorm, and, if lucky, a meal at a nearby Italian restaurant. \u00a0My host parents <i>hated<\/i> dining out&#8230; vestiges of privations during the era of Franco, and a natural reluctance to spend money unnecessarily.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-344 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-medium'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/sol-2-7-21-2015-6-49-58-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"206\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/sol-2-7-21-2015-6-49-58-pm.jpg?fit=206%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-383\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/sol-2-7-21-2015-6-49-58-pm.jpg?w=720&amp;ssl=1 720w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/sol-2-7-21-2015-6-49-58-pm.jpg?resize=206%2C300&amp;ssl=1 206w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/sol-2-7-21-2015-6-49-58-pm.jpg?resize=704%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 704w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 206px) 100vw, 206px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-383'>\n\t\t\t\tPuerta del Sol is the center&#8211;kilometer zero&#8211;of all roads leading to Madrid in Spain.  All streets are numbered upwards from Sol.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/2sol-3\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"190\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/sol-3-7-21-2015-7-36-23-pm.jpg?fit=190%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-384\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/sol-3-7-21-2015-7-36-23-pm.jpg?w=718&amp;ssl=1 718w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/sol-3-7-21-2015-7-36-23-pm.jpg?resize=190%2C300&amp;ssl=1 190w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/sol-3-7-21-2015-7-36-23-pm.jpg?resize=649%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 649w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 190px) 100vw, 190px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-384'>\n\t\t\t\tStatue of Carlos III in Sol.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/sol-7-21-2015-6-46-11-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/sol-7-21-2015-6-46-11-pm.jpg?fit=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-385\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/sol-7-21-2015-6-46-11-pm.jpg?w=1278&amp;ssl=1 1278w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/sol-7-21-2015-6-46-11-pm.jpg?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/sol-7-21-2015-6-46-11-pm.jpg?resize=768%2C433&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/sol-7-21-2015-6-46-11-pm.jpg?resize=1024%2C577&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-385'>\n\t\t\t\tThe clock tower of la puerta del Sol chimes midnight at New Years.  The plaza fills with celebrators eating the 12 grapes&#8211;one for each stroke of the clock&#8211;eaten in Spain on New Years.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/tio-pepe-sol-7-27-2015-10-28-10-am\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/tio-pepe-sol-7-27-2015-10-28-10-am.jpg?fit=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-386\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/tio-pepe-sol-7-27-2015-10-28-10-am.jpg?w=1278&amp;ssl=1 1278w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/tio-pepe-sol-7-27-2015-10-28-10-am.jpg?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/tio-pepe-sol-7-27-2015-10-28-10-am.jpg?resize=768%2C433&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/tio-pepe-sol-7-27-2015-10-28-10-am.jpg?resize=1024%2C577&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-386'>\n\t\t\t\tTio Pepe has moved from one building to another over the last 5 years or so (I believe it was nowhere in 2011, when I was last in Spain).\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>I went with my &#8220;host aunt and uncle,&#8221; with whom I got along marvelously&#8211;we loved to discuss politics. \u00a0They are Communists, or at least they were (doubt they&#8217;ve changed much), and very anti-USA, but also very well-informed and cultured. \u00a0My host parents were and are very conservative and religious. \u00a0Very good people, but the time I spent with\u00a0<em>los tios\u00a0<\/em>was a needed breath of fresh air. \u00a0At the time I had not yet decided to abandon the Catholic church, but I was not religious and had never been, and spent more time questioning than accepting any religious doctrine. \u00a0I felt right at home with self-proclaimed communist atheists \ud83d\ude09 \u00a0Going to Madrid with them meant museums and good food and visits with other doctors (I remember one complaining about the <em>publish or perish\u00a0<\/em>aspect of academia in the States. \u00a0Funny thing is, now that I am in academia, I do really want to publish, but not because I am worried about\u00a0<em>perishing<\/em>, but because I want my stuff OUT THERE!!)<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-2' class='gallery galleryid-344 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-large'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/alcala-7-21-2015-6-51-11-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"472\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/alcala-7-21-2015-6-51-11-pm-1.jpg?fit=1024%2C472&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-390\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/alcala-7-21-2015-6-51-11-pm-1.jpg?w=1191&amp;ssl=1 1191w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/alcala-7-21-2015-6-51-11-pm-1.jpg?resize=300%2C138&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/alcala-7-21-2015-6-51-11-pm-1.jpg?resize=768%2C354&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/alcala-7-21-2015-6-51-11-pm-1.jpg?resize=1024%2C472&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-390'>\n\t\t\t\tThe Calle de Alcala is the longest street in Madrid, running over 10 kilometers from Puerta del Sol to the northeastern quarter.  I&#8217;ve walked from Sol to Ventas, where the bullfights are held.  The statues in this picture are on the BBV (Banco Bilbao-Vizcaya) building, near Sol.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/gran-via-7-21-2015-6-33-43-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"577\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/gran-via-7-21-2015-6-33-43-pm.jpg?fit=1024%2C577&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-371\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/gran-via-7-21-2015-6-33-43-pm.jpg?w=1278&amp;ssl=1 1278w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/gran-via-7-21-2015-6-33-43-pm.jpg?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/gran-via-7-21-2015-6-33-43-pm.jpg?resize=768%2C433&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/gran-via-7-21-2015-6-33-43-pm.jpg?resize=1024%2C577&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-371'>\n\t\t\t\tThe Gran Via is a wide street that runs from Plaza de Espa\u00f1a to  where it joins Calle de Alcala just before Plaza de las Cibeles.  There is a beautiful building at the junction of the two streets, but (of course) it was getting a facelift and covered completely.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Towards the end of my first year in Spain, My friend Raquel and I went to Madrid together, alone on the train. Raquel needed to enroll at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ucm.es\/english\">la Complutense<\/a>, or talk to them, and I was always looking for an excuse to go to Madrid. \u00a0Considering we had only recently at the time gotten lost (walking several kilometers down the highway towards <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Burgos\">Burgos<\/a>!) in Palencia when we signed her up for the <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Selectividad\">Selectividad<\/a> (college entrance exam), it was rather brave of us to venture alone to the capital&#8230; but we made it, and only went the wrong way on the metro once. \u00a0We even managed to take the metro to visit the boys (my host brother and friends) before catching the train home.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-3' class='gallery galleryid-344 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-medium'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/catedral-de-madrid-7-25-2015-6-54-22-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"262\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/catedral-de-madrid-7-25-2015-6-54-22-pm.jpg?fit=262%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-3-362\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/catedral-de-madrid-7-25-2015-6-54-22-pm.jpg?w=720&amp;ssl=1 720w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/catedral-de-madrid-7-25-2015-6-54-22-pm.jpg?resize=262%2C300&amp;ssl=1 262w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 262px) 100vw, 262px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-3-362'>\n\t\t\t\tLa Catedral de la Almudena en Madrid is one of the least interesting in Spain&#8230; it might even be the LEAST interesting, but I cannot say for sure, as I haven&#8217;t seen them all.  However, it&#8217;s right next to the Royal Palace and Plaza del Oriente, so it gets plenty of tourists.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/san-andres-7-24-2015-1-37-05-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"169\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/san-andres-7-24-2015-1-37-05-pm.jpg?fit=169%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-3-381\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/san-andres-7-24-2015-1-37-05-pm.jpg?w=720&amp;ssl=1 720w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/san-andres-7-24-2015-1-37-05-pm.jpg?resize=169%2C300&amp;ssl=1 169w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/san-andres-7-24-2015-1-37-05-pm.jpg?resize=577%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 577w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 169px) 100vw, 169px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-3-381'>\n\t\t\t\tThe Iglesia de San Andres is near Plaza de la Cebada and la Cava Baja,  so it doesn&#8217;t get much attention.  People are too busy eating, drinking, and making merry.  Besides, San Francisco el Grande is just down the road, and much more interesting.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/san-francisco-el-grande-7-24-2015-1-36-19-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"208\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/san-francisco-el-grande-7-24-2015-1-36-19-pm.jpg?fit=208%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-3-382\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/san-francisco-el-grande-7-24-2015-1-36-19-pm.jpg?w=717&amp;ssl=1 717w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/san-francisco-el-grande-7-24-2015-1-36-19-pm.jpg?resize=208%2C300&amp;ssl=1 208w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/san-francisco-el-grande-7-24-2015-1-36-19-pm.jpg?resize=709%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 709w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 208px) 100vw, 208px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-3-382'>\n\t\t\t\tThe Real Bas\u00edlica de san Francisco el Grande is an impressive neoclassical church on the calle Bailen.  It&#8217;s got paintings by Goya and Zurburan.  The school I used to teach for brought its choir and enough kids to act out the manger scene here every Christmas.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>When I left Palencia at the end of that first year&#8211;by train to Madrid&#8211;there were many tears on the railway platform. My host family and many friends, including Raquel, all came to say good-bye. We needn&#8217;t have been so sad though, since two years later I returned for my junior year abroad. I intended to attend the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.uab.cat\/web\/universitat-autonoma-de-barcelona-1345467954774.html\">Universidad Autonoma de Barcelona<\/a>, and had even studied <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Catalan_language\">Catalan<\/a> the previous semester in preparation (this made every person I met in Barcelona my best friend). \u00a0I had enrolled at the university and stayed two weeks with friends in a chalet near Barcelona&#8230; but I didn&#8217;t like the city. \u00a0Or rather, I was unimpressed by the university and the different flats I saw when shopping for an apartment to share. \u00a0So I decided I&#8217;d go to Madrid, enroll at the Complutense, and stay with Raquel \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-4' class='gallery galleryid-344 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-large'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/cava-baja-7-24-2015-1-39-32-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"577\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/cava-baja-7-24-2015-1-39-32-pm.jpg?fit=577%2C1024&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-4-363\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/cava-baja-7-24-2015-1-39-32-pm.jpg?w=720&amp;ssl=1 720w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/cava-baja-7-24-2015-1-39-32-pm.jpg?resize=169%2C300&amp;ssl=1 169w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/cava-baja-7-24-2015-1-39-32-pm.jpg?resize=577%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 577w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 577px) 100vw, 577px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-4-363'>\n\t\t\t\tLa calle de la Cava Baja offers an example of the best night life in Madrid.  It is a 4-5 minute walk from my friend Raquel&#8217;s current flat, which was very convenient for me&#8230;\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/chata-cava-baja-7-24-2015-1-40-29-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"425\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/chata-cava-baja-7-24-2015-1-40-29-pm.jpg?fit=1024%2C425&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-4-367\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/chata-cava-baja-7-24-2015-1-40-29-pm.jpg?w=1276&amp;ssl=1 1276w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/chata-cava-baja-7-24-2015-1-40-29-pm.jpg?resize=300%2C124&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/chata-cava-baja-7-24-2015-1-40-29-pm.jpg?resize=768%2C318&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/chata-cava-baja-7-24-2015-1-40-29-pm.jpg?resize=1024%2C425&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-4-367'>\n\t\t\t\tA particularly colorful bar on the Cava Baja.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/plaza-santa-ana-7-21-2015-6-57-48-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"577\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/plaza-santa-ana-7-21-2015-6-57-48-pm-1.jpg?fit=1024%2C577&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-4-376\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/plaza-santa-ana-7-21-2015-6-57-48-pm-1.jpg?w=1278&amp;ssl=1 1278w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/plaza-santa-ana-7-21-2015-6-57-48-pm-1.jpg?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/plaza-santa-ana-7-21-2015-6-57-48-pm-1.jpg?resize=768%2C433&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/plaza-santa-ana-7-21-2015-6-57-48-pm-1.jpg?resize=1024%2C577&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-4-376'>\n\t\t\t\tLa Plaza de Santa Ana is very fancy and touristy nowadays.  When I first lived in Madrid, it was rather shabby and very Bohemian.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/alatrista-7-24-2015-1-41-38-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"577\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/alatrista-7-24-2015-1-41-38-pm.jpg?fit=577%2C1024&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-4-389\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/alatrista-7-24-2015-1-41-38-pm.jpg?w=720&amp;ssl=1 720w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/alatrista-7-24-2015-1-41-38-pm.jpg?resize=169%2C300&amp;ssl=1 169w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/alatrista-7-24-2015-1-41-38-pm.jpg?resize=577%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 577w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 577px) 100vw, 577px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-4-389'>\n\t\t\t\tMy sons wanted to go to la Taberna del Capitan Alatriste (of course!: http:\/\/www.tabernadelcapitanalatriste.com\/, near la Cava Baja&#8230; \n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Since that second year in Madrid, I&#8217;ve stayed with Raquel in many flats (all near the center of the city), and of course I&#8217;ve lived in my own flats in different places. Perhaps my favorite section to live in has been near <a href=\"http:\/\/www.madrid.es\/portales\/munimadrid\/es\/Inicio\/Ayuntamiento\/Tetuan\/Parque-Dehesa-de-la-Villa?vgnextfmt=default&amp;vgnextoid=c2e013a90fb7e210VgnVCM2000000c205a0aRCRD&amp;vgnextchannel=0813ca5d5fb96010VgnVCM100000dc0ca8c0RCRD\">Dehesa de la Villa<\/a>, a park in the northwest section of the city (cool blog about it:\u00a0http:\/\/amigosdehesa.blogspot.com\/). \u00a0I&#8217;ve lived in two different flats near Dehesa de la Villa, very convenient access to the Hipodromo de la Zarzuela, but not so convenient otherwise, as there was no metro when I first lived there (now there is a stop relatively close). \u00a0Loved being near the park though.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-5' class='gallery galleryid-344 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-large'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/cafe-comercial-7-27-2015-1-58-14-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"577\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/cafe-comercial-7-27-2015-1-58-14-pm.jpg?fit=1024%2C577&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-5-391\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/cafe-comercial-7-27-2015-1-58-14-pm.jpg?w=1278&amp;ssl=1 1278w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/cafe-comercial-7-27-2015-1-58-14-pm.jpg?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/cafe-comercial-7-27-2015-1-58-14-pm.jpg?resize=768%2C433&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/cafe-comercial-7-27-2015-1-58-14-pm.jpg?resize=1024%2C577&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-5-391'>\n\t\t\t\tThe day before I left Madrid, I discovered that the Cafe Comercial, an old bar that frequently served as a meeting point for tourists and natives alike, had closed that very day.  People were shocked, many taking photos and peering at the windows,, as if hoping to see inside through the newly taped up paper.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/cafe-comercial-cerrado-7-27-2015-1-57-16-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"577\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/cafe-comercial-cerrado-7-27-2015-1-57-16-pm.jpg?fit=1024%2C577&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-5-360\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/cafe-comercial-cerrado-7-27-2015-1-57-16-pm.jpg?w=1278&amp;ssl=1 1278w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/cafe-comercial-cerrado-7-27-2015-1-57-16-pm.jpg?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/cafe-comercial-cerrado-7-27-2015-1-57-16-pm.jpg?resize=768%2C433&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/cafe-comercial-cerrado-7-27-2015-1-57-16-pm.jpg?resize=1024%2C577&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-5-360'>\n\t\t\t\tThe sad news seemed to take everyone by surprise, although it shouldn&#8217;t have.  So many businesses have closed in the last several years.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>The <a href=\"http:\/\/www.metromadrid.es\/en\/\">metro<\/a> has expanded nearly beyond recognition since I first rode it in 1988. It cost 40 pesetas for a single ride back then&#8230; now it&#8217;s up to two euros. At the same time, many many businesses have closed, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.euronews.com\/2015\/07\/28\/cafe-comercial-closes-uproar-in-madrid\/\">such as the Cafe Comercial<\/a> above.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_415\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-415\" style=\"width: 169px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jessicaeblack.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/08\/wp_20150713_14_27_54_pro.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-415 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/jessicaeblack.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/08\/wp_20150713_14_27_54_pro.jpg?w=169&#038;resize=169%2C300\" alt=\"WP_20150713_14_27_54_Pro\" width=\"169\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-415\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of my favorite beers, Te Deum Roja, is on tap at the Cerveceria Oldenberg<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I had a bad scare when I first walked\u00a0down the calle Cardenal Cisneros, in the Bilbao area of the city. \u00a0The corner where the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.oldenburgcerveceria.es\/\">Cerveceria Oldenburg<\/a>\u00a0had existed for as long as I could remember was occupied by a place that sold Tacos (I think). \u00a0Luckily, they had just moved down the street to a much bigger (if less cozy) locale. \u00a0They still had Te Deum roja on tap, one of my favorite beers, not least becasuse I love the name and once sat and listened to <a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/B9gwq5UgISk?t=1m32s\">Berlioz&#8217;s Te Deum<\/a> while drinking several glasses. \u00a0I like <a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/KeYuPPP1-Qw?t=1m17s\">Bruckner&#8217;s Te Deum<\/a> nearly as much, but it was a Berlioz moment.<br \/>\nA friend with whom I used to teach at <a href=\"http:\/\/www.stmichaelsschool.es\/\">St. Michael&#8217;s School<\/a> introduced me to an excellent restaurant just off the south side of the <a href=\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Viaducto_de_Segovia\">viaducto<\/a> on the Calle Bailen: <a href=\"http:\/\/www.tabernarayuela.com\/\">La Taberna Rayuela<\/a>. \u00a0Excellent food and a beautiful location, and who can resist a restaurant named after<a href=\"http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Rayuela-Spanish-Julio-Cort%C3%A1zar\/dp\/8466319050\"> a famous book<\/a>\u00a0by Cort\u00e1zar, which I&#8217;ve just learned is called &#8220;Hopscotch&#8221; in English. \u00a0It&#8217;s excellent in the original Spanish, but I cannot vouch for any English translation.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-6' class='gallery galleryid-344 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-medium'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/rayeula\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"176\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/rayeula.jpg?fit=300%2C176&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-6-378\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/rayeula.jpg?w=1127&amp;ssl=1 1127w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/rayeula.jpg?resize=300%2C176&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/rayeula.jpg?resize=768%2C451&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/rayeula.jpg?resize=1024%2C601&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-6-378'>\n\t\t\t\tLa Taberna Rayuela is in a pretty location, with vistas of the viaducto (de Segovia) de la calle Bailen.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/rayuela-mujeres-7-24-2015-4-51-04-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"169\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/rayuela-mujeres-7-24-2015-4-51-04-pm.jpg?fit=169%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-6-380\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/rayuela-mujeres-7-24-2015-4-51-04-pm.jpg?w=720&amp;ssl=1 720w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/rayuela-mujeres-7-24-2015-4-51-04-pm.jpg?resize=169%2C300&amp;ssl=1 169w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/rayuela-mujeres-7-24-2015-4-51-04-pm.jpg?resize=577%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 577w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 169px) 100vw, 169px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-6-380'>\n\t\t\t\tThe bathroom doors were particularly entertaining.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/rayuela-hombres-7-24-2015-4-51-09-pm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"169\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/rayuela-hombres-7-24-2015-4-51-09-pm.jpg?fit=169%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/rayuela-hombres-7-24-2015-4-51-09-pm.jpg?w=720&amp;ssl=1 720w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/rayuela-hombres-7-24-2015-4-51-09-pm.jpg?resize=169%2C300&amp;ssl=1 169w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/rayuela-hombres-7-24-2015-4-51-09-pm.jpg?resize=577%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 577w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 169px) 100vw, 169px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I fell in love with Madrid the first year I spent in Spain. \u00a0I was living in Palencia, a small city in Castilla-Leon whose residents take pride in their pure\u00a0castellano (Castilian Spanish), the early Gothic Cathedral\u00a0known as\u00a0la bella desconocida, and the province&#8217;s many examples of arquitectura rom\u00e1nica\u00a0(Romanesque, I believe, in English&#8230; I studied History of&hellip;&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/jessicaeblack.org\/everythingelse\/2015\/08\/03\/madrid-miscellanea\/\" rel=\"bookmark\">Read More &raquo;<span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Madrid, miscellanea<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":3921,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"neve_meta_sidebar":"","neve_meta_container":"","neve_meta_enable_content_width":"","neve_meta_content_width":0,"neve_meta_title_alignment":"","neve_meta_author_avatar":"","neve_post_elements_order":"","neve_meta_disable_header":"","neve_meta_disable_footer":"","neve_meta_disable_title":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[3,2,8],"tags":[9,12],"class_list":["post-344","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-backgound","category-opinion","category-travel","tag-madrid","tag-spain"],"yoast_head":"<!-- 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