How to wrap horse legs (and how to roll the leg wraps)

In this post I will explain (and show) how to wrap horse legs. To demonstrate, I will use fleece polo wraps (the yellow ones) and standing wraps (the green ones), but the method applies to any leg wrapping.

Polo vs. standing wraps?

What type of wraps should I use?

Standing wraps

Standing wraps are used as part of bandaging. They can hold cotton or quilted or pillow padding in place. They are often used to “sweat” horse legs, either to aid in wound curing or as standard practice after exercise. (At a later date I will post a sweating how-to blog.) Standing wraps (with padding) can also be used for shipping (although I would recommend shipping boots). They tend to be thinner and wider than polo wraps, and made of cotton fabric rather than fleece.

Polo wraps

Polo wraps are used to protect the horses legs during training. They are usually narrower than polo wraps and made of thicker fabric (usually fleece). They come in various lengths. Logically, smaller horses need shorter wraps. If I were queen of wrap fabrication, I would sell in sets with two shorter wraps and two longer ones, because the hind legs have thicker bones. I almost always want longer wraps for the hind legs.

Polo wraps do not provide any special support to tendons (contrary to some people’s belief). They do protect the legs from abrasions that can happen due to interfering (the horse stepping on itself) or external objects. Depending on how you put them on they provide more or less protection to the fetlocks.

Others?

There are also elastic training bandages that do provide greater support to the tendons (but they aren’t going to prevent a bow or keep one from getting worse). I haven’t seen these in some time, and I don’t have any left. These or these look like what I am talking about, but I cannot be sure without touching them. They require more skill and attention to detail to put on. If I get some, I will add to this post.

All wraps must be rolled up prior to putting on the horse’s leg, so we will start there.

How to roll wraps

The trick to rolling up wraps is that the inside of the wrap (that goes against the horse’s leg) has to be on the outside. So, you roll towards the Velcro. Some people like to fold the Velcro back and attach it to the other side of the Velcro. I prefer to just roll it up, but attaching it does help stop confusion.

I prefer to use a (clean) wall to roll up wraps. It helps keep the tension even throughout the rolling process, and you can use the other hand to smooth out the fabric.

You can buy a device to roll wraps. I have never used one, but I highly doubt it can go faster (or do a better job) than I can with my bare hands. Preferably with a wall too, but I can also roll without a wall. And I don’t think that device would allow me to feel the tension properly. This one might be better for keeping the tension and fabric even.

How to wrap a horse’s leg

The basic idea is start at the top or middle of the cannon, wrap down to the fetlock, and back up to the top of the cannon. Because back legs are thicker, you will start lower than with the front legs with the same length of wrap. You will start higher on smaller legs.

Which way to wrap?

In the above photos, I am wrapping back to front. I prefer to do that because I find it easier to scoop under the fetlock that way. Some people say you should never do it that way because (supposedly) you could then put too much pressure on the tendon.

You shouldn’t be applying that much pressure in the first place! The most important thing, however, is to make sure to apply equal pressure with each loop of the bandage. If you have one loop tight and the rest not-so-tight, then you could cause damage to the tendon. I have seen banana-shaped tendons from bandages that were too tight or unequally tight. Fortunately this type of tendon injury is rarely permanent. A few days and the swelling will be gone.

I like to make sure all of the wraps are put on the same way (either front to back or back to front). I am not sure it makes that much of a difference (far more important to ensure equal pressure). But it looks a lot better!

It’s probably better to put on each wrap whichever way you can do it best. A stable lad once told me at length that they should all be perfectly equal in pressure, wraps around the fetlock, height, etc., and many people can only do that if they do front-to-back on one side and back-to-front on the other. He might be right.

The videos below include front-to-back and back-to-front wrapping.

I don’t love any of these videos with the yellow polo wraps. I have positioned myself at an angle to allow the video to view. Then I didn’t take into account that that would bring the wrap to the side (normally it’s centered over the front of the leg). Also, the wraps are too thick, especially for this small horse. They are brand new, and will probably get better with use.

There are two more videos with the yellow polo wraps below, wrapping back-to-front.

Things to consider

Perfectionism

It’s not necessary, especially for a short(ish) training ride. It is more important to get the wraps right if you are racing (think endurance or flat-racing) or galloping or if the wraps need to stay on all day to protect a wound.

You should pay more attention with elastic bandages. If they are not right, you could damage the horse’s tendon (though, again, it will probably not last long).

But these polo wraps and standing bandages are fairly forgiving. Again, the key thing is to keep the pressure even the entire time. If you do that, they will stay up and be comfortable for the horse.

With practice you will get good at it. I haven’t put wraps on regularly for years, but when I wrapped 2-4 legs of 3-5 horses every morning 6 days a week… Well, when you do that, you are very efficient, fast and accurate.

Above: This standing wrap (placed on the naked leg like a polo wrap would be) is closer to what I liked to see. My loops are even and centered over the front of the leg (you can see a little V there). The Velcro is on the outside of the leg.

Bunching

The slight bunching doesn’t make much of a difference for these fleece wraps. I would probably redo them if I were going to ride for more than an hour. But I wouldn’t use brand new, unwashed wraps for a long ride in any case.

Terrain

If it’s really muddy and/or wet, these wraps might slip. I would not hesitate to use them in rain (after redoing more neatly) for a short ride. If they get really wet they will come off. This is bad if you are going fast. One day my horse stepped on a loosened front wrap while galloping. Fortunately I looked down and saw it, and was already pulling up when he stepped on it with a back leg. But since we were accelerating in the final curve, he still fell and rolled. I airplaned off.

I had not put those wraps on; my then-boyfriend had. They were elastic bandages, which do loosen more in wet conditions than fleece polo wraps. It was wet. Still, I wish I had put them on.

Some tips to make it easier

Tie up the tail to do the back legs…

If it’s long and unwrapped.

Sometimes horses will object at first!

When a horse first feels leg wraps of any sort, it may think it cannot walk. It can be find of funny! But be careful with possible kicking. Make sure there is room for the horse to get used to the wraps safely.

It can help to have someone hold up the other leg (front leg if you are wrapping the other front, back if wrapping back)

Above: Jazz getting used to his wraps the first time I needed to use them on him. Read about why he needed them here: Jazz’s adventures in the far north.

On VetRap:

It’s different. Although the basic premise of working down, then up, and maintaining equal tension is the same, Vetrap stays on more easily (unless it gets wet, then it’s the worst ever). It sticks to itself, so you don’t have to worry about going down/up as much. It sticks to itself so it can be very difficult to find the END when you want to UNWRAP. (I double up the edge a bit, and always leave it in the same place.)

You don’t need to tighten VetRap as much (it’s easy to get it too tight), but it does need to be stretched as you wrap. It’s tricky. Maybe I will do another blog at some point.

VetRap can be used to provide some support while working your horse. It provides more support than polo wraps.

VetRap shouldn’t be reused. But I rode for a horse trainer in Spain who reused it regularly. He would use electrician’s tape to make sure it didn’t come undone.

VetRap knockoffs (like these from Amazon) are not as good as the real deal.

Practice makes perfect

No matter how many people show you how to wrap horse legs, the only way to really learn is to do it. You should experiment with front-to-back vs. back-to-front. Try different wraps, if you find a certain set unwieldy. Or try washing them.

Above: An example of a back-to-front wrap on a front leg. I am standing wraps here, but without padding (as if they were polo wraps, or just to be used for exercise). I actually prefer thinner fabric, those yellow wraps are too thick.

Shopping

Riding Warehouse polo wrap page

Look, they make a VetRap cutter!! Someone needs to tell me if this works…

State Line Tack wrap page

Horse.com wrap page

Dover Saddlery leg wrap page

If you prefer Amazon.com, here is a link to some nice bandages. You can search from here if you don’t like those.

Smartpak polo wrap page

Final two videos on how to wrap horse legs, until I get a chance to make better ones!

Above: Wrapping front to back.

Above: Wrapping back to front. I generally prefer this way, but it doesn’t matter as long as you are consistent and maintain equal pressure.

Horse credits:

The dark brown (black legs) is a Morgan gelding, WSG Beroni, courtesy of WSG Morgans.
The red (sorrel aka chestnut legs) is a a Quarter horse gelding, Shopcat.

Also see:

How to braid and wrap your horse’s tail also features Shopcat.

And Beroni, being a hot horse, is mentioned here: In defense of “hot” horses

Feeding for fashion: How to keep hay out of your nice(r) clothes

FAQ

What’s the difference between polo wraps and standing wraps?

Polo wraps are stretchy fleece used during schooling. Standing wraps are usually wider and not elastic; they are used to keep padding or bandages used for support or aftercare. Each serves a different purpose and shouldn’t be used interchangeably.

When should I choose standing wraps instead of polo wraps?

Use standing wraps with padding for stall support, shipping, swelling control, or after workouts; use polo wraps for under-saddle schooling when you want light protection and tactile feedback. Don’t ride in standing wraps.

How tight should leg wraps be on a horse?

Snug, even pressure with no wrinkles. You should be able to slide a couple of fingers under the wrap. Polo wraps need to be snugger than standing wraps. Over-tight wraps or pressure points can injure tendons.

Which direction do I wrap each leg?

Wrap front legs from the inside toward the outside (clockwise on left front, counterclockwise on right front; I call this “back to front”) and mirror that on hind legs, maintaining even tension.

Note that this is my preferred method. It’s ok to do it the other way, just do it the same for all legs. Even tension is the most important feature of a good wrap.

Can I wrap over the knee or hock?”

Probably not effectively. The wraps are likely to cause pressure points and/or loosen and fall off. It’s not a good idea to wrap over the knee or hock; stop below those joints. They do make specialized products to wrap the joints if needed.

Is it safe to leave leg wraps on overnight?

Only if they’re standing wraps made for that purpose, with padding, applied correctly, and checked regularly. Never leave polo wraps on overnight.

**Note that I have done so, but only with the correct padding (and experience).

How do I roll wraps so they unroll correctly onto the leg?

Roll with the inner surface out, toward the Velcro, so the wrap unrolls smoothly onto the leg without twisting. Keep the roll tight and even. (See the videos above!)

Do I wrap hind legs differently from front legs?

The technique is the same, but hind cannons are often longer and wider. The perfect set of wraps would have longer ones for the hind legs!

How should I wash and store wraps?

Close Velcro, wash in a mesh bag, and air-dry flat to avoid shrinking or warping. Store rolled pairs together so they’re ready to apply.

What common mistakes should I avoid when wrapping?

Avoid uneven tension, wrinkles, wrapping over joints, loose tails, and riding in standing wraps. Always use clean, undamaged wraps and proper padding when required.